Our minimum price for installation services is $1000. However, we do make some exceptions based on the services required. We do not charge our customers on a price-per-square-foot scale. Every job has unique requirements. The required labor, equipment, environment, location, type of supplies and cost of supplies fluctuate. Fuel prices also affect pricing of materials and transportation. Feel free to call us for a quote on our professional services. After we are provided with enough details, we can provide you with an estimate. If you prefer to email us information first, our email address is listed on this website. And of course, you are always welcome to stop down at one of our many Chicago-area showrooms and we'll sit down with you to talk about your project.

We do not hire subcontractors. Labor will be provided by employees of our corporation. Our owner, Paul Sidorski, hires based on experience and work ethic, and he screens his employees very carefully. His team is made up of the finest professionals, and all of them are insured under workers' compensation laws.

 Absolutely. You should never hire a contractor who is not licensed, bonded and insured. If you do, you will be responsible to fix something if it damaged, or if the job doesn't pass inspection. We have insurance should the unexpected happen, and we are required by law to adhere to regulations.

There are many reasons to choose a hardwood floor over other floor types. Many people are simply attracted to their aesthetic value. They are beautiful and natural, and will easily complement any design in any room. Ceramic and stone floors are beautiful and natural as well, however they are not as flexible at adapting to their surroundings.

Hardwood floors are also a smart investment. They raise the resale value of your home, and can last the lifetime of your home if they are properly maintained. If your floor shows some wear and tear after a couple generations of children, you can simply sand it down and put on a new finish. Hardwood floors are relatively easy to care for. You can read our page on Maintenance for Hardwood Floors for more information.

Ultimately, only you can decide what flooring is best for you. Everyone has different tastes, preferences, requirements and lifestyles. We can give you the information you need to help you with your decision.

Hardwood floors will keep your air cleaner and reduce pest infestations. If anyone in your home has allergies or breathing difficulties, installing a hardwood floor where a carpet used to be will be a breath of fresh air.

No matter how much you vacuum and clean your carpet, it is bound to collect things. Unfortunately, it doesn't collect anything you want. Microscopic dust mites, leftover dirt, grime from the outside, and pollen tracked in unknowingly settle within the fibers and rearrange themselves instead of succumbing to the vacuum cleaner. The carpet looks clean because the fibers have moved and we see dirt. But inside, life still harbors.

If you have pets, then you know the challenges of carpet care. Animal hair, fleas, and pet urine are some of a carpet's worst nightmares. None of these are healthy for any resident. With a hardwood floor, animal hair can be swept up, urine can be mopped up, and fleas will have no where to hide. Your hardwood floor will bring you a sigh of relief.

There are many types of hardwood flooring, and many types of carpeting. The price will depend on the quality, design, manufacturer and supplier of the material you are purchasing. However, since a hardwood floor lasts far longer and increases the resale value of your home, your return on your investment is much higher when you purchase a hardwood floor.

A hardwood floor is a very good investment. As we've mentioned before, it raises the resale value of your home. But there are other financial returns that are a side-effect of having a hardwood floor.

When you have a hardwood floor installed, the structural integrity of your home will improve. This is because the flooring will be nailed to the joists of your home.

Hardwood floors insulate better than many other floor coverings and can save on heating and cooling bills.

Their longevity – the ability to last for generations – is a long-term cost savings.

They are environmentally friendly. They come from a renewable resource and can be recycled into other wood and paper products.

Engineered flooring, 3/4” solid flooring, Longstrip and Parquet are common floor types that are being installed today (and not necessarily in that order). These are being installed in both finished and unfinished woods. (Except the Longstrip, which is usually pre-finished.)

There are also many custom jobs. Adding a border, changing a direction, engraving or embossing crests and medallions add sophisticated touches to your hardwood floor. There are striking laser inlays and patterns, exotic woods, and even hardwood heating and cooling registers that can be made to match your wood floor.

Hardwood floors are installed by various methods that are usually determined by the type of wood. The structure of the subfloor and home will also have an affect on installation.

When 3/4” solid wood strips or planks are being put down, it's common to nail them down or staple them down. This type of flooring needs a wooden subfloor, or sleepers that are on or above grade. A pneumatic gun is used for stapling the new hardwood floor onto the subfloor.

Some hardwood floors can be glued down. In this method, a strong adhesive is spread on the subfloor or wood flooring to adhere the wood flooring to the subfloor. The glue method is not recommend for 3/4” solids, but Parquets are almost always glued.

Engineered wood floors are versatile, and can be nailed, stapled or glued.

There is also a “floating” method of floor installation, used in tongue and groove methods, sometimes known as click and lock. This is a fast and easy floor installation method. When a floor is floated, that means it is not nailed down to a subfloor. There is an underlayment which is usually a thick pad between the subfloor and the new flooring. The padding protects the subfloor from moisture and reduces noise transmission as well. It also gives the floor a softer feel. Some floating floors require glue, others don't. Engineered floors can be floated, as can Longstrip floors.

Yes. The shade of the floor may be affected by ultraviolet rays. Some woods, such as Brazilian Cherry, naturally darken over time. Any color change will depend on the type of wood and the amount of direct and indirect ultraviolet rays your floor is exposed to.

Hardwood floors hold up extraordinary well in any room that is not subject to heavy water or moisture exposure. We would not recommend installing a hardwood floor in a full bathroom or a damp basement. Any below-ground structure will likely have moisture problems. But from the ground up, your hardwood floors can last the lifetime of your home.

Pre-finished floors are coated with ultraviolet polyurethane at the factory. Unfinished floors will be coated with your finish on site, at your home. Therefore, a pre-finished floor can be installed in a day, whereas an unfinished floor will require sanding, finishing and drying at the job site.

A pre-finished floor does not require sanding, but your subfloor must be level and immaculately clean before installing.

You'll find solid wood floors, laminate floors, and many other types that are pre-finished. Many pre-finished floors can be glued down instead of nailed down.

Laminate is a pre-finished floor created with layers of different wood and material types. Laminate can be installed over a plywood subfloor or a concrete subfloor. It's recommended that pre-finished solid wood is nailed down to plywood.

Yes. In fact, if your installed hardwood floor receives any type of extensive damage or unsightly wear, sanding and refinishing your floor is a cost-effective way of repairing it without replacing the floor. The number of times you can sand and refinish your floor will depend on the type of flooring, the thickness of the wood, and the finish. Sometimes it's just necessary to sand off the finish and reapply a new finish to make an old floor look brand new.

The amount of time in between re-coating or refinishing your floor will depend on your lifestyle and what the floor has been exposed to and endured, as well as the type of wood. Sometimes a floor will look like it's ready for a new finish, but it just needs some extra cleaning with special products made for hardwood floors.

A simple test can indicate if your floor needs sanding or refinishing – and it's done with only a couple drops of water. Pour two tablespoons of water on your floor. If the water beads up, your floor just needs some spiffying up that specialty floor cleaners can take care of. But if the water soaks into your floor, then it's time to re-coat or refinish your hardwood floor. If it takes a while to soak in, you can bide some time before you get your floor refinished. If it soaks in right away, then you should start preparing your house for a refinishing job as soon as possible.

Yes, as long as your floor has not been waxed or has an oiled re-coating. This is a wonderful option since you won't be subjected to the mess and expense of sanding a floor. In fact, if you give your floor a new coat every few years before the finish wears through, your floor will not need sanding as much.

However, you must make sure that your floor is prepared to take the new finish. Dirt, wax, oil and other chemical can prevent a new coat from adhering to the floor. Using your floor's manufacturer-recommended hardwood floor solvents and cleaning products to prepare your floor for refinishing will increase your chances of the finish taking to your floor.

Here at Flooring Mania, we wash the floor with solvents, then buff it with a fine abrasive screen after it has dried from the solvent application. This fine abrasive buffing ensures that the new finish will take to the floor.

Hardwood floors should be expected to have cracks and gaps. Weather, moisture and humidity levels will make the wood expand and contract. Unless your wood floor is in a room that is at an exact, absolutely consistent temperature throughout the years, expect your floor to expand and contract and leave gaps and cracks. It is virtually impossible to keep an exact temperature year round because your floor will be affected by the ground, air and other rooms of the house as well. Wood absorbs moisture, and gives off moisture. (Technically, that means it is a hygroscopic material.)

The appearance of the expansion and contraction will have a lot to do with the type of wood. Generally, you'll see a 1% change in the dimensions of your floor with every 3% change in the moisture content of the wood. Maple tends to be a little more susceptible to expansion and contraction. Hardwood tend to change at greater percentages than softwoods.

To reduce gaping or cracking, keep your room at a humidity level that ranges between 45% and 55% all year round. Experts recommended installing a humidifier in your furnace, but depending on the size of the room, a portable humidifier may do just as well. Relative humidity is measured by the amount of moisture the air is holding, and will vary with warm air and cool air.

When it gets cold outside and the heat is turned on to warm up the house, the humidity level drops significantly. This causes the wood to shrink and leave gaps. If you are in a cold rural environment that requires propane heating, don't store your wood near a propane heater. Propane heaters expend larger amounts of moisture compared to other heating systems, and it may significantly affect and even damage your wood.

When the moisture returns and indoor heating cools (spring in most cases), you will notice the floors expanding and closing their gaps over time.

You'll find an article about expansion and contraction on our website if you'd like more information.

Controlling moisture and humidity will control contraction and expansion. Keep your house at a humidity level that doesn't go under 45% or over 55%. This is the easiest way to control expansion and contraction.

There is an article on the expansion and contraction of hardwood floors on this website if you'd like more information on the topic.

Humidity changes or an old subfloor in need of repair can cause a floor to squeak. Older homes often have a 3/8” strip flooring. As with any wood, it will expand and contract with humidity, but 3/8” floors may react by cupping in the middle of the strips, or ending up with a “crowning” effect at the edges. As you walk, you are changing the shape of these warped pieces and they will rub against the subfloor or joists and creak or squeak because of the gaping air or the contact with other wood.

In newer houses or in newer floors, it's more likely a change in humidity rather than a poor subfloor is causing the squeaking. Hardwood floors naturally develop squeaks because they change. As with older floors, the expanding and contracting will cause air gaps between the subfloor and nails. Since your floor contracts (shrinks) during warm temperatures, you're likely to hear more squeaks when you are heating your house.

Keeping the humidity between 45% and 55% will reduce squeaking. (Unless your subfloor is deteriorating, in the case, you need to fix your subfloor.) Shims can also be put in. These are a thin piece wood or plastic that is driven in between the subfloor and the joists so that when the wood expands, the shim will expand as well to fill in the gap. Another manner in which to reduce squeaks is to use a pneumatic nailer and drive 2” finish nails into the flooring at a 15 degree angle.

Despite any rumors that indicate so, sanding and finishing will not solve a squeaky floor problem.

Polyurethane. This is a very durable urethane finish that can be found at almost any hardware or flooring store. It's applied by spraying it on or rolling it on. Polyurethane comes in several different gloss levels, so you can easily find the shine you're looking for. It's also low-maintenance, which is another good reason for its popularity. Pre-finished hardwood floors use polyurethane with oxide added to it for additional protection.

Our website has articles on hardwood floor finishes, so browse around if you'd like more information.

The color of hardwood floor may change due to the natural coloring of the wood or because of its exposure to direct or indirect ultraviolet rays. Woods such as Brazilian Cherry darken over time. Maple and Oak will change depending on the light it is exposed to. It is a natural process and should be expected. Lack of air may also change the coloring of a floor. However, any sudden change may be due to a chemical reaction from an inappropriate floor cleaner or harmful stain.

Hardwood floors are a wonderful, healthy solution to families with multiple pets because they are easy to clean and do not harbor the animal hair, mites and fleas that carpets will. You can expect the floor will scratch more due to your pets claws if your pets are larger or actively play in the house. (Keeping your pet's nails trimmed will reduce scratching.) Unexpected accidents from pet urine or feces must be cleaned up immediately so the floor doesn't stain. (The same rule holds true for carpets and other floorings as well – which any pet owner already knows.) Regular floor maintenance will keep your new floor long-lasting even in households with multiple pets.

Hardwood floors do not need much more maintenance than other floor types. The basics, such as keeping the floor swept and free from debris, keeps the floor looking new and free from sandpaper-like scratches. However, you do not want to mop a wood floor with a lot of water as you would a vinyl floor. Dry mopping, or damp mopping when dry mopping isn't enough, should be the extent of your mopping. Keeping staining materials and acids away from your floor will keep your floor clean and looking new. For the best maintenance, use the manufacturer's recommended professional cleaners made specifically for wood floors.

You can read our article on this website about hardwood floor care maintenance if you're interested in further details.

Dry cleaning is always preferred because floors do not react well to water exposure. Only use a damp mop when necessary, and spot clean larger stains. The faster you clean up your spills and the faster you dry up afterwards, the better it is for the floor. You can find other tips on hardwood floor cleaning in our article on hardwood floor maintenance.

To “screen” a floor means that it is buffed with a very fine abrasive that prepares the floor to hold the finish better than it would if it was not screened. Particles and chemicals can interfere with the take of a finish, and “screening” a floor eliminates the chance of the finish not adhering.

To re-coat a floor simply means you are putting on a new coat of finish over an old coat.

Sanding a floor and applying a new finish is the basic process of refinishing a floor. Sanding makes the floor smooth, and the new finish protects the floor. The type of wood you have will determine how often (and if) your floor can be sanded and refinished.

You can do anything, but installing a standard hardwood floor in a basement is definitely not recommend. Basements are subject to the condition of the ground, and are in a very moist environment. Large amounts of moisture can quickly deteriorate a floor. However if you are determined to do so, you may be able to purchase wood that has any guarantees on moisture protection voided. You can also look at moisture barriers and specialty engineered flooring that is manufactured specifically for damp areas. Purchasing material suitable for outdoor use is also an option.

You will want to follow extra steps in preparing your basement to make sure it is as moisture-proof as possible. Keep in mind that most basements are subject to flooding and the primary recipient of any water flooding from broken or frozen pipes.

There are products specifically made for basement floors, however indoor hardwood flooring is not one of them. Take a look at some laminate flooring, engineered flooring, and flooring made specifically for exterior use. Keep in mind that moisture will impact the condition of wood, and the longevity of adhesive.

If you are flooring a basement, the most important thing for you to do is to make sure it is as moisture proof as possible.

There is a simple test that involves using a piece of plastic. Get a 1' by 1' sheet of plastic from a hardware store and tape it down to the subfloor. Leave it for 24 hours. When you take it off the floor, if you see moisture droplets or a dark area on your subfloor, you will likely need moisture protection or, in more serious cases, a new or repaired subfloor.

A pre-finished hardwood floor is finished at the factory instead of at your home. The factory applies an ultraviolet polyurethane that gives added protection. Since it is created at a factory, it has a more consistent look. It is also much faster to install than an unfinished floor because you avoid the sanding and finishing process.

A hardwood floor can be installed over concrete by using a floating floor installation, gluing the floor directly to the concrete subfloor, or putting plywood over the concrete floor. The actual installation process will depend on the type of hardwood flooring you purchase.

Some standard indoor flooring materials and methods do not meet condominium flooring codes. However, codes and legal regulations vary between towns, cities and states and buildings. As a licensed and bonded contractor, we are required by law to meet all codes and regulations.

Cork has fantastic acoustic properties. Then natural composition of cork can reduce noise by “200 million air cells per cubic inch” according to many manufacturers. Noise and feedback are significantly reduced compared to standard underlayments.

A solid hardwood floor is made from solid wood, whereas an engineered floor is made of layers. The top layer of engineered wood is usually a premium hardwood. Both come in many shapes and sizes. You can learn more about engineered floors and solid hardwood floors by reading the many articles on our website.